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Medina and Ferreira Post Big Surfing Scores as Storm Rolls In – The New York Times

Several rounds of competition were jammed into one day as a tropical storm churned off the east coast of central Japan.

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The ride was probably about seven seconds long, but it felt like 70 minutes long, Igarashi said immediately afterward. I felt every single little moment. I felt my heartbeat, I felt my hair in the wind, I felt being in the air. And I had thoughts while…

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